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Clearbrook is described by the Ordnance Survey (Government
map agency) as a 'scattered hamlet', an apt description for
it at any stage of its history. It lies on the South Western
fringe of Dartmoor and as the air photograph shows, is in
the midst of a number of industrial ventures.
The road
junction to the left of the centre of the photograph
includes a bridge over the Plymouth leat, (the dark line
running right to left and as a bushy arc at the top of the
fields on the right) built in 1591 to take water from the
Moor to Plymouth. Sir Francis Drake is reputed to have
ridden a horse along the leat ahead of the released water!
The later Devonport leat (c.1796) is visible to the right of
the bridge as a dark line in the pale green patches of the
moor.
The
horse-drawn Tramway which ran from Plymouth to Princetown
and was completed fn 1837, crosses the road just beyond the
bridge. This was one of the many, largely unsuccessful,
attempts to 'develop' the Moor. Finally, the South Devon and
Tavistock Railway, completed by 1859, ran right to left
immediately below the houses in the foreground.
As
I.K.Brunel was involved in some of its engineering it is not
surprising that the track was originally broad gauge, and
for a while between about 1873 and 1890, carried LSWR trains
as well as GWR. Despite the wealth of transport and
industrial activity mainly passing through this area,
Clearbrook seems to have been almost completely unaffected
by it all.
In view of this, the first two
questions invariably asked about Clearbrook are:
The answer to the first question
is superficially easy, The earliest houses were built on
part of a field which is referred to in the deeds as 'Clearbrook
Field formerly Parsons Field'. Clearbrook is possibly a
reference to the intermittent stream that forms the Northern
boundary of the field; 'clear' perhaps because it is not
contaminated with China clay as are other Dartmoor streams
not too far away. For that matter 'Parsons field' is also
inexplicable; it is not glebe land, nor does there appear to
be any person of that name in the vicinity. Another
variation 'Millbrooks field' which appears in some documents
is even worse, since anything less like a mill brook than
this normally feeble rivulet would be hard to imagine.
With regard to the second
question, we are again on uncertain ground, though it is
worthwhile investigating some possibilities, It is
noticeable that one of the syndicate originally buying the
land was a man called George Frean, (who is an interesting
man). Originally he is noted as a baker (and sometimes
miller) supplying the Royal Navy with biscuits. He is also
one of the men, like Thomas Tyrwhitt, who were interested in
developing Dartmoor to its full potential and making some
money in the process. Accordingly, he is responsible for
Powdermills, (the gunpowder factory) between Two Bridges and
Postbridge, deep in the Moor. The gunpowder incidentally,
was not intended for the Royal Navy, but to help farmers
with land clearance. Possibly he saw the Clearbrook area as
fitting into some 'Improver's' plan, though what he had in
mind is unknown. He appears to sell the land on and is not
involved in any building but he may have had some thoughts
about mining, for two of this colleagues in the syndicate
were miners.
The 1851 census, some five years
after the probable date of the first houses, shows these two
- John Fezzey and John Jeffrey - living in Clearbrook
together with nine other Tin miners and one mine labourer
out of a total male population of 17, (at least half of whom
appear to be relatives of the original two). Ten years
later, none of these are living in Clearbrook, but there are
six Copper miners and one Tin miner in a total male
population of 34. There is a similar pattern for
agricultural labourers. Their numbers peak at nine in 1861
and 1891 and then decline to 2, so it is impossible to
identify Clearbrook as an hamlet devoted to any particular
trade.
The idea is sometimes expressed
that the Skylark Inn was originally opened to meet the needs
of thirsty miners and farm labourers, but this seems
unlikely. The Inn as such does not appear on the census
returns until 1861, though it is possible that the actual
building was one of the empty houses noted in the previous
census. By this time George Frean had joined forces with
Peake and had established the famous biscuit factory in
Bermondsey and eleven years after that was dead.
Clearbrook continued to grow
slowly, in the sense that one or two houses were built in
each decade, but at the same time probably contracted
because many of the original houses contained two small
houses (one up, one down) which were later merged, so that
although the number of buildings remained about the same,
the number of households declined, There continued to be no
distinct reason for people to live here, there was no
railway station at Clearbrook until 1929 for example, by
which time it had become a recognised residential and
recreational area for Plymouth. It is possible that about
this time one of the houses was occupied by friends of
Lawrence of Arabia, who visited them during his time as
Aircraftsman Shaw at RAF Mount Batten, using his famous
motor bike. Most of the houses were let and at least two
were boarding houses.
Today the majority of houses are
owned by their occupiers, and the total population is
probably only a fifth larger that the previous maximum
achieved in 1861. Clearbrook is still a quiet residential
hamlet, beautifully placed for walking, cycling or riding in
the valley of the River Meavy, or on Dartmoor. Its Pub, the
Skylark, is said to be the only one of that name in Britain
and with its wide view of the open moor it is appropriately
named. It has always supplied drinks but has recently added
to that a growing reputation for food! It does not offer
accommodation but two houses still do.
Recently, the old, decrepit
Village Hall was demolished and completely rebuilt, thanks
to generous grants from the Lottery Fund and County,
District and Parish Councils - plus of course strenuous
efforts from the inhabitants.
So.., come and see for yourself,
the charm - old and new - that has attracted people to
Clearbrook for one and an half Centuries....
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